胸省设计在女装结构设计中的应用
摘要:本课题研究不同乳房形态下胸省省量和胸省形状。通过对圆锥型、圆盘型、半球型和纺锤型这四种乳房形态的上装原型的制作,并将其穿着在人台上进行着装测试,通过对平面纸样的比较,研究乳房形态与胸省省量和形状的关系。
本文阐述了省道的研究、胸省量的研究、胸省省量的影响因素和胸高变化与衣身结构的关系的相关知识。针对女装中胸省的省量和形状,主要研究乳房的形态对胸省的影响。选择四种形态的乳房,同时保证这四种乳房形状下的胸围是一样的,通过对人台的补正,用白坯布分别制作上衣原型,并将之转为平面样板,比较平面样板中胸省的形状大小等,找出规律。
研究结果表明,不同形态下的乳房的胸省省量和形状都是不同的。研究结果表明人们为了使衣服的穿着更合体,在制作服装时可根据不同的乳房形态来确定胸省省量,胸省的形状,胸省省长等。
关键词:胸省;结构设计;乳房形态
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